Rajasthan - Royal State of India (Jaisalmer)

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Royal State of India! Think of Rajasthan and you think of Vibrant Colours, Rajputana Forts & Palaces, Desert & Camels

After our successful planning of Kerala trip in October 2013, I was bit confident about my holiday planning. So I ditched the idea of package tour and started my planning. Rajasthan is biggest state of India in term of area. There are so many places in Rajasthan of tourist attractions such as – Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalamer, Udaipur, Bundi, Shekhawati, Bikaner, Ajmer, Chittaurgarh, Pushkar and many more. I guess if one has to see entire Rajasthan than they need more than a month. I started planning very early this time. Once again after reading many online forums, I finalized Mumbai – Jaisalmer – Jodhpur - Ranakpur - Kumbhalgarh – Udaipur - Chittaurgarh- Jaipur-Mumbai. My itinerary was 16 days long including travel time. Dates were finalized - Friday, November 14, 2014 to Sunday, November 30, 2014. I booked 3AC train tickets from Mumbai to Jaisalmer and Jaipur to Mumbai. Similar to Kerala tip, I handpicked homestays at five cities which were near to the markets and also has good connectivity to the places that we wanted to visit.

Day 1: Friday, November 14, 2014

We started from Bandra Terminus in Bandra-Jaisalmer SF Express at 2.35 pm.

Day 2: Saturday, November 15, 2014

Reached Jaisalmer after 24 hours long journey at 2.30 pm. Took a cab (Rs. 50) and reached Hotel Roop Mahal. The reason behind to choose this hotel was Jaisalmer fort is visible from the rooftop. Rooms were big enough and clean but basic. We went to Rooftop restaurant had lunch, rested for an hour, freshened up and got out to visit our first spot in Rajasthan. Took an auto rickshaw (Rs. 30) and reached Gadisar Lake at 5.00 pm. There were few stalls selling traditional Rajasthani items such as cap, kathputlis, etc. It is a man-made lake and then only source of drinking water in that area. There are many beautiful temples around the lake. Earlier in the evening, there were not many people around it but as the sun was going down, people started arriving. Boating option is available and if you are interested then you can also feed cat fish which are in large number. We roamed around and click few pictures of lake and temples at sunset. We decided to walk back to our hotel as it was not far away from Gadisar. We also had to search a scooty on rent for next day. We enquired about scooty at two places and after bargaining, booked one for 24 hours at Rs. 300. We also checked about camel safaris in deserts and all of them were offering safari at Sam Deserts at different prices. I also called Badal Singh of Khuri and asked if he has any availability. Badal Singh replied positively so we confirmed our booking over a call. Roamed around market which is near to Gopa chowk, had our dinner and came back to our hotel. Hotel Roop Mahal cost Rs. 550 for a day.


Day 2: Kathputli/Puppet for sale at Gadisar Lake

Day 2: Rajasthani caps for sale at Gadisar Lake


Day 2: Gadisar Lake


Day 2: Gadisar Lake


Day 2: Gadisar Lake

Day 3: Sunday, November 16, 2014

Started at around 9.00 am and went near main gate of the Jaisalmer fort. Had our breakfast at Chandan Shree restaurant which is opposite of main gate. This fort is living fort. It has homes, hotels, restaurants and shops inside the fort. The entire fort and most of the Jaisalmer is constructed of yellow sandstones and that is the reason the city is also known as Golden City. The main attractions inside forts are Jain temple and fort Palace/Museum. We bought the two entry tickets (Rs. 20) and camera ticket (Rs. 50) for Jain Temple and went inside. The temple is indeed beautifully craved in yellow sandstones. We spent more than an hour looking at the temple carvings. Afterwards we went towards Fort Palace/Museum. Bought the two entry tickets (Rs. 100) and camera ticket (Rs. 100) and went inside. This was residence of Royal family and now turned into museum. From rooftop, one can see 360 degree view of golden city. After 3 hours, we came out of the fort and again went to Chandan Shree for lunch. After lunch, we went to pick-up our two wheeler.

It was time to visit Havelis of Jaisalmer. We first went to Patwaon Ki Haveli which is approximately 1 KM away from the fort. Bought two tickets (Rs. 40) and camera (Rs. 100). This is the biggest of three well known havelis of Jaisalmer. These are cluster of 5 havelis. It is full of artistic work on facades and the Jharokhas (balconies). Mirror work inside Mohini Vilas and Jevan Vilas is remarkable. There are few shops in a section wherein you can buy Rajasthani clothes and handicrafts. It took almost an hour to check the entire haveli for us. Nathmal ji ki Haveli is at walking distance of 5-10 minutes. One more haveli with sandstone carvings. But only a part of it is accessible for public viewing as the family lives in this haveli. We spend only 10-15 minutes here. While roaming in this part of Jaisalmer, we noticed that many homes and hotels are built using sandstone with exquisite carving on it. It was 5.00 pm and we had to visit Bada Bagh for sunset so we skipped Salim Singh ki Haveli. Bada Bagh is around 8 KM away from the fort. We rode till their on our scooty and reached at around 5.30 pm. We paid entry fees of Rs. 150 for two people and camera. There were only 2-3 tourists and few local people insisting to take their guide services for small fees. Royal Cenotaphs at Bada Bagh is cremation ground of the Royal family. I went ahead and clicked some photos of the Chatris. Later few tourists cars and buses came which bought around 50-60 people. It was an amazing sunset to watch. We came back to Gopa chowk (market) and roamed in the market, had our dinner and went back to our hotel at around 9.00 pm.

Day 3: Jaisalmer Fort

Day 3: Jain Temple inside Jaisalmer fort

Day 3: Jaisalmer Fort Muesuem inside Jaisalmer fort

Day 3: Jaisalmer Fort Muesuem inside Jaisalmer fort


Day 3: Panoromic view Jaisalmer Town

Day 3: Jaisalmer Fort


Day 3: Interior of Nathmal ji ki haveli


Day 3: Interior of Nathmal ji ki haveli


Day 3: Nathmal ji ki haveli


Day 3: Nathmal ji ki haveli


Day 3: Bada Bagh Cenotaph


Day 3: Bada Bagh Cenotaph


Day 3: Sunset from Bada Bagh


Day 3: Night view of Jaisalmer Fort


Day 4: Monday, November 17, 2014

Started at 9.00 am and went to Amar Sagar Lake. But lake was completely dried up so we moved towards Lodurva. The village is 16 KM away from Jaislamer city. We reached Lodurva at 10.30 am and visited Jain temple. Entry tickets for two was Rs. 50 including camera. This temple is also made of yellow sandstones. We noticed that there were very less tourists at this place. Two of us, two foreigners and rest were local people coming for puja. It was 11.30 am and we had to head back to Jaisalmer city and then start our journey towards Khuri. Reached Gopa chowk, had our lunch, gave scooty back to the owner and came back to our hotel. To find buses that leave for Khuri village, you need to go ahead of Gadisar lake, take right turn and walk for approximately 100-150 meters. The bus was supposed to leave at 4.00 pm but started at around 4.15 pm. Bus ticket to Khuri village is Rs. 30 per person. I called up Badal Singh and told him that we have boarded bus leaving to Khuri. It was an hour drive through deserted terrain. As we alighted from bus, small boy came and asked if we want to go to Badal House. I nodded Yes and followed him to Badal house.

After freshening up, started our camel ride at 5.00 pm and moved towards Khuri Dunes to watch the sunset. On our way, we saw many peahens but were not lucky enough to see a peacock. I started my usual task of clicking photographs. There were few people with musical instruments and dancers for your entertainment at a small fee. As sun was going down, people were coming to watch the magical sunset in the desert. The sun dipped into the desert and all the tourists start journey back to their respective stays. At around 7.30 pm, Badal singh told us our dinner is ready. We went and noticed one foreigner couple was already sitting and waiting for us. Dinner was simple veg meal but was good. We start conversation with the couple and came to know that they have come from Belgium to visit Rajasthan and Jaisalmer is last destination of their trip. We spent around an hour chatting to each other and then went to terrace to watch the sky full of stars. It was a cold night and the temperature must have been around 5-7 degree Celsius.


Day 4: Lodurva Temple

Day 4: Lodurva Temple


Day 4: Lodurva Temple


Day 4: Lodurva Temple


Day 4: Lodurva Temple


Day 4: Lodurva Temple


Day 4: View of Jaisalmer Fort


Day 4: View of Khuri Desert


Day 4: View of Khuri Desert


Day 4: View of Khuri Desert


Day 4: Camel at Khuri Desert


Day 4: Camel at Khuri Desert


Day 4: Camel at Khuri Desert


Day 4: Camel at Khuri Desert


Day 4: Sunset at Khuri Desert


Day 5: Tuesday, November 18, 2014

We woke up at 7.00 am to watch sunrise. Badal singh told us bus for Jaisalmer leaves at 8.30 am so we got ready, said good bye to our co-guests from Belguim and moved towards bus stop. Camel safari charge Rs. 300, Staying in hut charges Rs. 300 and food for two person was Rs. 300. Tip: In Khuri, you can stay in tents which can cost up to 2000-3000 or stay in small huts which can cost up to 300-500. There are many staying options available in this small desert village. Camel-cart rides are also available if you don’t want to sit on camels. If you come here to watch sunset in desert (which is must) by local transport then there is no transportation available to go back to Jaisalmer town till next day morning.

We reached our hotel at 10.00 am got freshen up and checked out from the hotel and went to Airforce Circle (approx. 300 mtrs away from our hotel) from where we have to take bus leaving for Jodhpur. The bus we boarded left Jaisalmer at 12.00 am and we reached Jodhpur around 4.00 pm. Bus ticket to Jodhpur was Rs. 200 per person. Took an auto (Rs. 100) to reach Kesar Heritage Guest House. The reason to book this hotel was same – Mehrangarh fort is visible from rooftop and also close to the market place. We were bit tired of travelling so didn’t went outside and neither was anything planned in our itinerary. So we had our dinner at our hotel’s rooftop restaurant. Kesar Heritage cost Rs. 750 for a day. The room was basic but clean.

Day 5: Sunrise at Khuri
 
Day 5: Huts in which we stayed